It turns out that cruising never runs out of firsts.
There is something special about a ‘first’.
No matter how many miles you’ve sailed or how many countries you’ve visited, cruising has a wonderful way of reminding you that there is always another first waiting around the next island. This trip had plenty of them, especially for our guests.
It was our first season sailing in Fiji aboard FELIS. Asha and Siena’s first time exploring the Yasawa Islands by catamaran. Their first swim through limestone caves. Their first Pina Colada overlooking a tropical beach. Their first scuba dive. There was even first-time banana bread. Somehow, they all became part of one unforgettable couple of weeks.
We counted down the days until Asha and Siena arrived. Like so many times before, we were excited to have visitors. They had flown all the way from Perth to Nadi via Melbourne. It seemed only yesterday that, at seven years old, they had flown to visit us in Brisbane as unaccompanied minors. Now they were adults, arriving in Fiji to join us aboard FELIS.
They arrived at the dock late that evening. Their smiles said it all. The day before, we’d completed what had become the compulsory pre-visitor routine: a full provisioning run through Nadi. The cupboards were stocked, the fridge was full, and as usual, we had probably bought far more than we needed. The following morning, we slipped the lines and pointed FELIS back towards the Yasawa Islands.
Asha and Siena had spent plenty of time sailing before; this was their first experience aboard a catamaran. It didn’t take long before they were completely at home. They took turns at the helm, trimmed sails, followed the navigation displays, mastered the autopilot and even helped run the watermaker. It’s amazing how quickly they adapted. Before long, they weren’t guests; they were crew.
Life onboard isn’t just about sailing, and Kim found herself with two enthusiastic assistants in the galley. Siena decided it was time to learn how to bake banana bread, filling the boat with that unmistakable smell that somehow makes every yacht feel like home. Meanwhile, Asha took charge of dinner one evening and produced a chicken schnitzel that would have been welcomed in any restaurant. As always, I did my duty as chief dishwasher.
Our first beach stop was at One Dollar Bay. White sand stretched in both directions while coconut palms leaned lazily over the shoreline. We wandered along the beach collecting shells before watching Asha harvest her very first coconut. Like so many things in Fiji, the locals made it look remarkably easy.
The snorkeling was just as memorable. Just off the point we discovered a circular coral formation with a sandy centre. We anchored the dinghy right in the middle before slipping quietly into the water to explore the coral walls surrounding us. It felt like snorkelling inside nature’s own swimming pool.
Later we set off to complete our sevusevu ceremony at the nearby village of Somosomo. Presenting kava to the village elders is an important Fijian tradition, asking permission to visit and anchor nearby. Unfortunately, the village had more important priorities. They were all at a rugby match in the next village. We presented our gifts to a local lady and enjoyed a walk at the village beach.
From there we sailed to the famous Blue Lagoon. A walk over the hill rewarded us with fresh Fijian doughnuts smothered in chocolate sauce. We enjoyed the spectacular views before returning for another uniquely Fijian experience, a traditional lovo. Dinner cooked underground and shared on the beach with sand between your toes—another unforgettable first.
Then came one of the highlights of the trip, the Sawa-i-Lau Caves. By timing our visit carefully, we arrived after the crowds and had the cave system almost entirely to ourselves. Our guide, Ratu, led us through crystal-clear water beneath towering limestone walls before encouraging us to swim through the submerged entrance into the inner cave.
Swimming through a narrow underwater passage into a hidden cavern is one of those experiences that’s impossible to describe. Equal parts excitement and apprehension quickly gave way to amazement as sunlight filtered through the cave, reflecting off the water below. We even climbed the limestone wall inside the main cave and, one by one, jumped into the black, crystal-clear water below. Definitely another first for us all.
A strengthening southerly eventually persuaded us to leave the Yasawas and make a fast run back towards Malolo Island in the Mamanucas.
Life slowed down again. We hiked around the island, enjoyed lunch at the adults-only Lomani Resort and somewhere along the way it was finally time for another first: a Pina Colada. Sitting beside the resort pool with a tropical cocktail in hand somehow felt incredibly special.
Not content with just one new experience, we squeezed in another. Mushroom Rock, just north of Malolo, became the site of Siena and Asha’s first scuba dive. Watching them disappear beneath the surface with such confidence, looking like naturals from the very beginning and then return with even bigger smiles was every bit as enjoyable as the dive itself.
The ride back was considerably less glamorous. The fresh breeze had built into a wet and bumpy trip home, leaving us all thoroughly soaked, followed by long showers ashore before we climbed back aboard FELIS.
As always seems to happen, time began moving far too quickly. Before we knew it, the bow was pointed back towards Port Denarau. The girls’ flight home was waiting, and another adventure was coming to an end.
One of the greatest pleasures of cruising is being able to share it with people you love. Having Asha and Siena aboard transformed FELIS. The boat somehow felt fuller. Kim loved having extra hands in the galley, and I think we both realised just how much we enjoy sharing this lifestyle.
The places were spectacular. The sailing was wonderful. But more than anything else, it was watching two young women embrace every opportunity, learn new skills and collect so many “firsts” that made this voyage one we’ll remember for a very long time.
